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When assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.